Files
3D model format
Stereolithography (.stl)
Total files
Slicer settings
Mesh error check
not specified
Support
Lifetime support from Gambody team
Update requests
not specified
Model versions
FFF/FDM
Assembly method
not specified
Features
DLP/SLA
Assembly method
not specified
Features
FFF/FDM
Assembly method
not specified
Features
Additional details
Part of diorama
No
Special pack included
No
You will get instant access to the STL files of Ecto-1 Frozen Empire 3D Printing Model | Assembly after completing your purchase. Simply add the model to your cart and check out using PayPal, credit or debit card, Apple Pay, Google Pay, Alipay, or other available payment methods.
Watch the assembly video for Ecto-1 Frozen Empire 3D Printing Model | Assembly, and explore more tutorials, behind-the-scenes content, 3D printing timelapses, and painting guides on the official Gambody YouTube channel.
This 3D printing model of Ecto-1 Frozen Empire consists of files in StereoLithography (.Stl) format that is optimized for 3D printing.
Before printing the files, we strongly recommend reading the PRINTING DETAILS section.
WHAT WILL YOU GET AFTER PURCHASE?
- 2 versions of Ecto-1 Frozen Empire STL files for FFF/FDM and DLP/SLA - files for all versions are available for download after the purchase;
- STL files of high-poly Ecto-1 Frozen Empire for 3D printing consist of 325 files;
- Sizes for:
- FFF/FDM: 236 mm tall, 230 mm wide, 476 mm deep;
- DLP/SLA: 118 mm tall, 115 mm wide, 238 mm deep;
- Assembly Manual for FFF/FDM 1.0 and DLP/SLA 1.0 versions in PDF and video formats;
- Detailed settings that we provide as a recommendation for Cura, Simplify3D, Slic3r and PrusaSlicer for the best print;
- Full technical support from the Gambody Support Team.
Detailed information about this 3D printing model is available in the DESCRIPTION section.
Before printing, take a look at Printing Details for recommended settings and tips to achieve better results.
ABOUT THIS 3D MODEL
Ecto-1 or Ectomobile is the most recognizable attribute in the Ghostbusters franchise that was used for capturing ghosts and other entities and features a unique design and great functionality. Converted from a 1959 Cadillac Miller-Meteor ambulance, Ecto-1 became the main means of transport for Ghostbusters in their adventures in New York City. The car, equipped with a number of tools such as locators, oxygen tanks, pipes, radars, heat sinks, beacons, among others, and featuring the famous Mooglie logo, has been loved by all Ghostbusters fans for decades and each new appearance of it is memorable and exciting!
The release of Ghostbusters: Frozen Empire inspired our contributing 3D artist to create a model for 3D Printing. The author thought out the new design of the salon, updated the wheels and seat mechanism, created a thematic platform, and added ground and aerial drones. This model is a dream and we are sure that you will share our opinion after 3D printing it, so don’t wait to embark on a new adventure!
ADAPTATION FOR 3D PRINTING
The moderation and adaptation of Ecto-1 Frozen Empire for different types of 3D printers took the Gambody team 105 hours in total. Every part in the model comes in an STL file in a recommended position that was worked out to ensure the smoothness of the detail’s surface after printing so that 3D printing beginners won't face difficulties when placing the part on a build plate. When downloading any car's file you will also receive the "Assembly Manual" for FFF/FDM 1.0 version in PDF format. We highly recommend that you get acquainted with the “Assembly Video” and “Assembly Manual” before getting down to the Ecto-1 Frozen Empire 3D printing model.
The 3D printing model is saved in STL files, a format supported by most 3D printers. All STL files for 3D printing have been checked in Netfabb and no errors were shown.
The 3D printing model’s chosen scales are 1:16 for the FFF/FDM version and 1:32 for the DLP/SLA version.
VERSIONS’ SPECIFICATIONS
FFF/FDM 1.0 version features:
- It contains 189 parts;
- A printed model is 236 mm tall, 230 mm wide, 476 mm deep;
- Updated design of discs;
- New interior in the salon back;
- The new doors can be turned 180°, and the seat extends;
- You can lower the floor hatch;
- The wheels of the ground drone rotate, and the doors of the trap move;
- The aerial drone manipulators unfold, and the trap opens;
- New dashboard and interior design;
- The Slimer figurine is added;
- The new rooftop features storage for the aerial drone;
- Two options for the doors - with the Ghostbusters logo and clean;
- Complex activesuspension;
- You can 3D print static spring plugs for the front wheels’ suspension or replace them with real springs;
- Rotating wheels;
- Rotating steeringwheel;
- The mechanism of the steering rack allows the simultaneous movement of the front wheels;
- Opening doors. To open the rear passenger door, open the front door first;
- Opening hood;
- Authentic highly detailed engine;
- Opening rear loading door. To open it, first pull it out and then move to the side;
- Two options for the license plate - with the car’s name and clean;
- The assembly of the model requires pins made out of short pieces of regular 1.75 mm filament;
- The windows are provided as separate assembly parts to be printed using transparent material (use clear resin for the best result);
- The tires are provided as separate assembly parts to be printed using flexible material;
- You can introduce LED wiring to the headlights, taillights, rooftoplights, etc.; the battery can be stored inside the boxes on the rooftop and inside the car next to the left rear door;
- All parts are divided in such a way that you will print them with the smallest number of support structures.
- NB: The platform is traumatic and must be kept out of reach of children!
DLP/SLA 1.0 version features:
- It contains 136 parts;
- A printed model is 118 mm tall, 115 mm wide, and 238 mm deep;
- Updated design of discs;
- New interior in the salon back;
- The new doors can be turned 180°, and the seat extends;
- You can lower the floor hatch;
- New dashboard and interior design;
- The Slimer figurine is added;
- The new rooftop features storage for the aerial drone;
- Two options for the doors - with the Ghostbusters logo and clean;
- Static suspension;
- Rotating wheels;
- Rotating steeringwheel;
- Opening doors. To open the rear door, open the front door first;
- Opening hood;
- Authentic highly detailed engine;
- Opening rear loading door. To open it, first pull it out and then move to the side;
- Two options for the license plate - with the car’s name and clean;
- The assembly of the model requires pins made out of short pieces of regular paper clips;
- The windows are provided as separate assembly parts to be printed using transparent material
- You can introduce LED wiring to the headlights, taillights, rooftoplights, etc.; the battery can be stored inside the boxes on the rooftop and inside the car next to the left rear door;
- All parts are divided in such a way that you will print them with the smallest number of support structures.
- All parts are divided in such a way to fit the build plates and to ensure that support structures are generated where needed.
- NB: The platform is traumatic and must be kept out of reach of children!
You can get the Ecto-1 Frozen Empire 3D printing model immediately after the purchase! Just click the green Buy button in the top-right corner of the model’s page. You can pay with PayPal or your credit card.
Watch the tutorial on how to assemble a Ecto-1 Frozen Empire 3D Printing Model on Gambody YouTube channel.
Also, you may like other Cars3D Printing Models.
________
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Below you'll find detailed slicing settings for Bambu Studio 2.0+, Orca Slicer 2.0+, UltiMaker Cura 5.0+, PrusaSlicer 2.0+, Slic3r 1.3+, Simplify3D 5.0+ to help you get the best results when printing this model. These settings are optimized specifically for this 3D model, but please note they may need slight adjustments depending on your printer or filament. When in doubt, refer to your printer's user manual.
To avoid printing issues and achieve the best quality, we highly recommend applying the following settings:
For better quality use 0.12 mm layer height, for fast printing use 0.2 mm layer height. For pins and the Ge connectors, use 0.2 layer height.
120-150% of your Layer Height
But you can paint the seam if you want.
You have to calibrate this parameter
You have to calibrate this parameter
You have to calibrate this parameter
For pins and power elements of the structure, such as the vehicle frame, use 3 loop
Disabled for vehicles and enabled for characters
For 0,2 Layer Height
The parameters in this tab vary greatly, it all depends on the quality of your printer. For example, if you have a classic Ender3, stick to the minimum parameters, but if you have a newer printer, for example Anycubic cobra 3 v2, you can select the maximum recommended values
Settings for advanced users, change these parameters only if you have sufficient 3D printing expertise
Enable this parameter if your model requires supports
We also recommend placing and removing supports manually in some places using special button
1-2 loops for more thick support
Top Z distance = 1-1.3 layer Height. If the supports are hard to remove, try increasing this setting by 0.1-0,4 mm
Bottom Z distance = 1-1.3 layer Height. If the supports are hard to remove, try increasing this setting by 0.1-0,4 mm
You have to calibrate this parameter which one is better for your filament
Increase this parameter if the supports are hard to remove from walls
For PLA and PETG filament types
5-8 mm is optional for small prints that have bad adhesion to the build plate
You have to calibrate this parameter
Read the description on your filament roll
Read the description on your filament roll and increase this parameter for fast printers
Read the description on your filament roll and increase this parameter for fast printers
For better quality use 0.12 mm layer height, for fast printing use 0.2 mm layer height. For pins and the Ge connectors, use 0.2 layer height.
120-150% of your Layer Height
But you can paint the seam if you want.
0.01-0.05 You have to calibrate this parameter
0.01-0.05 You have to calibrate this parameter
0.1-0.2 You have to calibrate this parameter
For pins and power elements of the structure, such as the vehicle frame, use 3 loop
Disabled for vehicles and ships, enabled for characters
For 0,2 Layer Height
For 0,2 Layer Height
The parameters in this tab vary greatly, it all depends on the quality of your printer. For example, if you have a classic Ender3, stick to the minimum parameters, but if you have a newer printer, for example, Anycubic Kobra 3 Or Bambulab A1, you can select the maximum recommended values.
Settings for advanced users, change these parameters only if you have sufficient 3D printing expertise
Enable this parameter if your model requires supports
We also recommend placing and removing supports manually in some places using special button
Top Z distance = 1-1.3 layer Height. If the supports are hard to remove, try increasing this setting by 0.1-0,4 mm
Bottom Z distance = 1-1.3 layer Height. If the supports are hard to remove, try increasing this setting by 0.1-0,4 mm
Increase this parameter if the supports are hard to remove from walls
For PLA and PETG filament types
5-8 mm is optional for small prints that have bad adhesion to the build plate
Read the description on your filament roll
Read the description on your filament roll and increase this parameter for fast printers
You have to calibrate this parameter
Read the description on your filament roll and increase this parameter for fast printers
Read the description on your filament roll
This field is filled in according to your printer specifications when you add it to the slicer.
You can add custom G-code here for the start and end of the print. However, be careful - this is for advanced users only!
You have to calibrate your printer using Ge retraction test models
Retraction Length: For direct-drive setups use 0.5 mm to 2.5 mm; for Bowden extruders use 5 to 7 mm
This is how fast the filament is pulled back—40-60 mm/s for direct drive and 30-50 mm/s for Bowden setups.
You have to calibrate this parameter: Reduce it until the printer starts to hit the parts with the nozzle during printing, then increase it by 0.2.
For better quality use 0.12 mm layer height, for fast printing use 0.2 mm layer height. For pins and the Ge connectors, use 0.2 layer height.
120-150% of your Layer Height
To increase the strength of the print parts, use wall line count: 3
For pins and connectors use 50% Infill
These parameters are for standard PLA plastic. If you are using a different type of plastic, check the printing temperature recommended by the manufacturer. Also, read the description on your filament spool. For fast printers, add +30 °C to the current parameters.
The parameters in this tab vary greatly, it all depends on the quality of your printer. For example, if you have a classic Ender3, stick to the minimum parameters, but if you have a newer printer, for example Anycubic cobra 3 v3, you can select the maximum recommended values
Settings for advanced users, change these parameters only if you have sufficient 3D printing expertise.
You need to calibrate this parameter using Gambody test models. These values are average values for a Direct Drive extruder; for a Bowden extruder, the values should be increased.
You need to calibrate this parameter using Gambody test models. These values are average values for a Direct Drive extruder; for a Bowden extruder, the values should be increased.
Use this value other than 0 if your nozzle catches on the internal infill during travel moves. Try to keep this value as low as possible in height.
Use normal supports to support large, straight surfaces (most mechanical or technical parts).
You have to calibrate this parameter according to the capabilities of your printer and your filament, using a Gambody test models.
Use 1 instead of 0 if your supports are thin and tall. They will be harder to remove, but much stronger.
Top Z distance = 1-1.3 layer Height. If the supports are hard to remove, try increasing this setting by 0.1-0,4 mm
Increase this parameter if the supports are hard to remove from walls
Use tree supports to support complex objects, such as characters.
You have to calibrate this parameter according to the capabilities of your printer and your filament, using a Gambody test models.
Top Z distance = 1-1.3 layer Height. If the supports are hard to remove, try increasing this setting by 0.1-0,4 mm
Increase this parameter if the supports are hard to remove from walls
Use a skirt for all parts when printing on outdated printers.
Use a brim when printing thin but tall parts, as well as parts with a small bed adhesion area.
For better quality use 0.12 mm layer height, for fast printing use 0.2 mm layer height. For pins and the Ge connectors, use 0.2 layer height.
120-150% of your Layer Height
for 0.2 Layer Height
But you can paint the seam if you want.
(for PLA and PETG)
(5-8 mm is optional for small prints that have bad adhesion to the build plate)
Enable this parameter if your model requires supports
(45-50 degree)You have to calibrate this parameter according to the capabilities of your printer
and your filament, using a Gambody test models.
Top contact Z distance = 1-1.3 layer Height. If the supports are hard to remove, try
increasing this setting by 0.1-0,4 mm
Top contact Z distance = 1-1.3 layer Height. If the supports are hard to remove, try
increasing this setting by 0.1-0,4 mm
Increase this parameter if the supports are hard to remove from walls
The parameters in this tab vary greatly, it all depends on the quality of your printer. For example, if you have a classic Ender3, stick to the minimum parameters, but if you have a newer printer, for example Anycubic cobra 3 v3, you can select the maximum recommended values
Settings for advanced users, change these parameters only if you have sufficient 3D printing expertise. Use the minimum value for outdated printers without acceleration calibration, and the maximum value for modern printers if you need it.
These settings only work for 3D printers with multiple extruders
You can try setting all parameters in this section, except the First layer, to values between 0.75% of your nozzle diameter and 1.25% of your nozzle diameter. Adjusting them will help you work out the optimal parameters for the best quality for your print. As for the First layer, you can set it to 150% of the diameter of your nozzle for better adhesion to the build plate (for a nozzle with a diameter of 0.4 mm, the First layer extrusion width can be from 0.3 mm to 0.5 mm)
For better printing quality you have to calibrate this parameter using Gambody test model.
Check your filament manufacturer's temperature recommendations on the spool.
Cooling parameters depends on the material you use for printing.
*for PLA
For better quality use 0.12 mm layer height, for fast printing use 0.2 mm layer height. For pins and the Ge connectors, use 0.2 layer height.
120-150% of your Layer Height
For 0.12 Layer Height
For 0.12 Layer Height
For pins and connectors use 50% Infill
Use skirt for outdated 3d printers
(5-8 mm is optional for small prints that have bad adhesion to the build plate)
Enable this parameter if your model requires supports
(45-60 degree)You have to calibrate this parameter according to the capabilities of your printer and your filament, using a Gambody test models
Contact Z distance = 1-1.3 layer Height. If the supports are hard to remove, try increasing this setting by 0.1-0,4 mm
The parameters in this tab vary greatly, it all depends on the quality of your printer. For example, if you have a classic Ender3, stick to the minimum parameters, but if you have a newer printer, for example Anycubic cobra 3 v3, you can select the maximum recommended values
Settings for advanced users, change these parameters only if you have sufficient 3D printing expertise. Use the minimum value for outdated printers without acceleration calibration, and the maximum value for modern printers if you need it.
You have to calibrate this parameter from 0.9 to 1.1 according to the capabilities of your printer and your filament, using a Gambody test models.
Check your filament manufacturer's temperature recommendations on the spool.
Cooling parameters depends on the material you use for printing.
Calibrate this value if you need to reduce or improve the adhesion between the plastic and the heat bed
Your current nozzle diameter
You need to calibrate this parameter using Gambody test models. These values are average values for a Direct Drive extruder; for a Bowden extruder, the values should be increased.
Your current nozzle diameter
You have to calibrate this parameter using Gambody test models.
You need to calibrate this parameter using Gambody test models. These values are average values for a Direct Drive extruder; for a Bowden extruder, the values should be increased.
For better quality use 0.12 mm layer height, for fast printing use 0.2 mm layer height. For pins and the Ge connectors, use 0.2 layer height.
For 0,2 Layer Height
For 0,2 Layer Height
To increase the strength of the print parts, use Outline Perimeters: 3
You can enable this parameter to print rounded or spherical models, as well as character models.
Use this option only if your parts are too tight. but better calibrate your printer extrusion
Use this option only if your parts are too tight. but better calibrate your printer extrusion
Use 2 and more if you want to create skirt instead brim
1-2 for skirt and 10-20 for brim
Use for wipe nozzle if you need
Use For ABS filament
For pins and connectors use 50% Infill
Top Z distance = 1-1.3 layer Height. If the supports are hard to remove, try increasing this setting by 0.1-0,4 mm
Calibrate your filament and detect optimal temperature for it
Average temperature for PLA filament
The parameters in this tab vary greatly, it all depends on the quality of your printer. For example, if you have a classic Ender3, stick to the minimum parameters, but if you have a newer printer, for example Anycubic cobra 3 v3, you can select the maximum recommended values
Settings for advanced users, change these parameters only if you have sufficient 3D printing expertise.























