Files
3D model format
Stereolithography (.stl)
Total files
Slicer settings
Mesh error check
not specified
Support
Lifetime support from Gambody team
Update requests
not specified
Model versions
FFF/FDM
Assembly method
not specified
Features
DLP/SLA
Assembly method
not specified
Features
SLS
Assembly method
not specified
Features
DLP/SLA
Assembly method
not specified
Features
Additional details
Part of diorama
No
Special pack included
No
You will get instant access to the STL files of Gyaos 3D Printer Files | Assembly after completing your purchase. Simply add the model to your cart and check out using PayPal, credit or debit card, Apple Pay, Google Pay, Alipay, or other available payment methods.
Watch the assembly video for Gyaos 3D Printer Files | Assembly, and explore more tutorials, behind-the-scenes content, 3D printing timelapses, and painting guides on the official Gambody YouTube channel.
This 3D Figurine consists of files in StereoLithography (.Stl) format that is optimized for 3D printing.
Before printing the files, we strongly recommend reading the PRINTING DETAILS section.
Gyaos 3D printing figurine comes in 4 versions for each 3D printer type (FFF/FDM, DLP/SLA and SLS). Files for each version are available for download after the purchase.
Detailed information about this 3D printing figurine is available in the DESCRIPTION section.
Before printing, take a look at Printing Details for recommended settings and tips to achieve better results.
ABOUT THIS 3D MODEL
The main antagonist of the Gamera franchise Gyaos, also known as the Shadow of Evil, is one of the most memorable kaiju monsters. Originally created by the Atlanteans, the genetically engineered pterosaur feeds on blood and can put up a solid fight against the legends of the Gamera universe. Having had more movie appearances than any other creature, Gyaos finally makes his grand entrance on our marketplace in the form of a model for 3D printing. The giant bat-like monster inspired by the original 1967 Gamera vs. Gyaos movie took our contributing 3D artist approximately 190 hours to sculpt. The 3D printing figurine depicts the savage Gyaos in the middle of a fight with yet another nemesis. Gyaos’ distinct flattened arrow-shaped head immediately rings the bell and makes you unmistakably recognize the monster. His mouth lined with knife-edged teeth is open to blast a ray of Supersonic Scalpel. The chest of the model is adorned with protruding segments reminiscent of Gyaos’ Showa era design. The leathery wings are spread wide and coupled with the three clawed fingers and additional talons on the ends to aid the battle. One can even pinpoint the bone structure stretching under the thin skin of the wings. Gyaos’ feet are also armored with massive talons and hind claws. The thick tail of the 3D printing model is embellished with a flat sail on top of it. The author made sure to adorn Gyaos’ body with the most realistic reptile-like skin possible, masterly carving every fold and wrinkle. The rocks scattered across the stand of the model were introduced as a finishing touch to add more life to the setting. With such a detailed Gyaos model for 3D printing joined with other kaiju monsters from our collection you can set your imagination free and create a unique monster battlefield no one could even think of!
ADAPTATION FOR 3D PRINTING
Gyaos is a static assembly figurine and its moderation and adaptation for different types of 3D printers took Gambody team 42 hours in total. The huge figurine in its assembly version was divided into as many assembly parts as needed to fit even the smallest 3D printers' build plates and for you to nevertheless receive a giant 3D printed kaiju after assembly. The cutting of Gyaos figurine was chosen by our team to minimise the amount of filament needed for generated support and some of the model’s parts were hollowed out for you to save resin in the model’s Eco version. For you to achieve the cleanest 3D printed result, kaiju’s wings were cut along the fingers’ contour and the creature’s tail, head, and legs are provided as separate assembly pieces. For the same purpose, the monster’s lower jaw was extracted from his mouth and is now provided as a separate part. The model’s rocky platform was divided into four parts to fit the build plates of the average 3D printers. All assembly parts are provided in STL files in recommended positions that were worked out so to ensure the smoothness of the details’ surfaces after printing and that the 3D printing beginners won't face difficulties when placing the parts on a build plate. When downloading any figurine's file you will also receive "Assembly Manual" for FFF/FDM 1.0 and DLP/SLA 1.0 versions in PDF format.
The figurine is saved in STL files, a format supported by most 3D printers. All STL files for 3D printing have been checked in Netfabb and no errors were shown.
The model's scale was calculated from Gyaos's heigh that is 85000 mm. The 3D printing figurine's chosen scale is 1/250 for the FFF/FDM version and 1/500 for the DLP/SLA/SLS versions.
VERSIONS' SPECIFICATIONS
FFF/FDM 1.0 version features:- Contains 17 parts;- A printed model is 365 mm tall, 593 mm wide, 299 mm deep;- The assembly kit includes locks to connect the model's parts securely without glue. Lock 16_ge_lock_10H(x16) needs to be printed 16 times; lock 17_ge_lock_7S(x1) needs to be printed once;- All parts are divided in such a way that you will print them with the smallest number of support structures.
DLP/SLA 1.0 version features:- Contains 8 parts;- A printed model is 183 mm tall, 297 mm wide, 149 mm deep;- All parts are divided in such a way to fit the build plates and to ensure that support structures are generated where needed.
DLP/SLA Eco 1.0 version features:- Contains 8 parts;- A printed model is 183 mm tall, 297 mm wide, 149 mm deep;- Contains some hollowed out parts to save resin.
SLS 1.0 version features:- Made as solid one-piece figurine;- A printed model is 183 mm tall, 297 mm wide, 149 mm deep;- Contains 2 parts - a one-piece Gyaos with the platform separated.
WHAT WILL YOU GET AFTER PURCHASE?
- STL files of Gyaos 3D printing model which consist of 35 parts;- 4 versions of files for this model for FFF/FDM, DLP/SLA, DLP/SLA Eco and SLS;- High-poly detailed figurine of Gyaos;- Assembly Manual for FFF/FDM 1.0 and DLP/SLA 1.0 versions in PDF format;- Detailed settings that we provide as a recommendation for Cura , Simplify3D and Slic3r for the best print;- Full technical support from the Gambody Support Team.
You can get Gyaos 3D printing model immediately after the purchase! Just click the green Buy button in the top-right corner of the model’s page. You can pay with PayPal or your credit card.
Watch the tutorial on how to assemble Gyaos 3D printing model at Gambody YouTube channel.
Also, you may like Gamera 3D Printing Model, as well as other Kaiju Model for 3D Printing.
_______FAQ: Where can I print a model if I have no printer?How to get started with 3D printing?How to set up my 3D printer?How to choose right 3D model print bed positioning? How to paint printed figurine?
Average customer rating (4 reviews)
5
Ratings breakdown
Click a star rating to filter reviews
Overall experience
Level of detail in the model
5
Model cut quality and assembly guide
5
Clarity and accuracy of the model page
5
Level of detail in the model
5
Model cut quality and assembly guide
5
Clarity and accuracy of the model page
5
Level of detail in the model
5
Model cut quality and assembly guide
5
Clarity and accuracy of the model page
5
Level of detail in the model
5
Model cut quality and assembly guide
5
Clarity and accuracy of the model page
5
Level of detail in the model
5
Model cut quality and assembly guide
5
Clarity and accuracy of the model page
5
Below you'll find detailed slicing settings for Bambu Studio 2.0+, Orca Slicer 2.0+, UltiMaker Cura 5.0+, PrusaSlicer 2.0+, Slic3r 1.3+, Simplify3D 5.0+ to help you get the best results when printing this model. These settings are optimized specifically for this 3D model, but please note they may need slight adjustments depending on your printer or filament. When in doubt, refer to your printer's user manual.
To avoid printing issues and achieve the best quality, we highly recommend applying the following settings:
For better quality use 0.12 mm layer height, for fast printing use 0.2 mm layer height. For pins and the Ge connectors, use 0.2 layer height.
120-150% of your Layer Height
But you can paint the seam if you want.
You have to calibrate this parameter
You have to calibrate this parameter
You have to calibrate this parameter
For pins and power elements of the structure, such as the vehicle frame, use 3 loop
Disabled for vehicles and enabled for characters
For 0,2 Layer Height
The parameters in this tab vary greatly, it all depends on the quality of your printer. For example, if you have a classic Ender3, stick to the minimum parameters, but if you have a newer printer, for example Anycubic cobra 3 v2, you can select the maximum recommended values
Settings for advanced users, change these parameters only if you have sufficient 3D printing expertise
Enable this parameter if your model requires supports
We also recommend placing and removing supports manually in some places using special button
1-2 loops for more thick support
Top Z distance = 1-1.3 layer Height. If the supports are hard to remove, try increasing this setting by 0.1-0,4 mm
Bottom Z distance = 1-1.3 layer Height. If the supports are hard to remove, try increasing this setting by 0.1-0,4 mm
You have to calibrate this parameter which one is better for your filament
Increase this parameter if the supports are hard to remove from walls
For PLA and PETG filament types
5-8 mm is optional for small prints that have bad adhesion to the build plate
You have to calibrate this parameter
Read the description on your filament roll
Read the description on your filament roll and increase this parameter for fast printers
Read the description on your filament roll and increase this parameter for fast printers
For better quality use 0.12 mm layer height, for fast printing use 0.2 mm layer height. For pins and the Ge connectors, use 0.2 layer height.
120-150% of your Layer Height
But you can paint the seam if you want.
0.01-0.05 You have to calibrate this parameter
0.01-0.05 You have to calibrate this parameter
0.1-0.2 You have to calibrate this parameter
For pins and power elements of the structure, such as the vehicle frame, use 3 loop
Disabled for vehicles and ships, enabled for characters
For 0,2 Layer Height
For 0,2 Layer Height
The parameters in this tab vary greatly, it all depends on the quality of your printer. For example, if you have a classic Ender3, stick to the minimum parameters, but if you have a newer printer, for example, Anycubic Kobra 3 Or Bambulab A1, you can select the maximum recommended values.
Settings for advanced users, change these parameters only if you have sufficient 3D printing expertise
Enable this parameter if your model requires supports
We also recommend placing and removing supports manually in some places using special button
Top Z distance = 1-1.3 layer Height. If the supports are hard to remove, try increasing this setting by 0.1-0,4 mm
Bottom Z distance = 1-1.3 layer Height. If the supports are hard to remove, try increasing this setting by 0.1-0,4 mm
Increase this parameter if the supports are hard to remove from walls
For PLA and PETG filament types
5-8 mm is optional for small prints that have bad adhesion to the build plate
Read the description on your filament roll
Read the description on your filament roll and increase this parameter for fast printers
You have to calibrate this parameter
Read the description on your filament roll and increase this parameter for fast printers
Read the description on your filament roll
This field is filled in according to your printer specifications when you add it to the slicer.
You can add custom G-code here for the start and end of the print. However, be careful - this is for advanced users only!
You have to calibrate your printer using Ge retraction test models
Retraction Length: For direct-drive setups use 0.5 mm to 2.5 mm; for Bowden extruders use 5 to 7 mm
This is how fast the filament is pulled back—40-60 mm/s for direct drive and 30-50 mm/s for Bowden setups.
You have to calibrate this parameter: Reduce it until the printer starts to hit the parts with the nozzle during printing, then increase it by 0.2.
For better quality use 0.12 mm layer height, for fast printing use 0.2 mm layer height. For pins and the Ge connectors, use 0.2 layer height.
120-150% of your Layer Height
To increase the strength of the print parts, use wall line count: 3
For pins and connectors use 50% Infill
These parameters are for standard PLA plastic. If you are using a different type of plastic, check the printing temperature recommended by the manufacturer. Also, read the description on your filament spool. For fast printers, add +30 °C to the current parameters.
The parameters in this tab vary greatly, it all depends on the quality of your printer. For example, if you have a classic Ender3, stick to the minimum parameters, but if you have a newer printer, for example Anycubic cobra 3 v3, you can select the maximum recommended values
Settings for advanced users, change these parameters only if you have sufficient 3D printing expertise.
You need to calibrate this parameter using Gambody test models. These values are average values for a Direct Drive extruder; for a Bowden extruder, the values should be increased.
You need to calibrate this parameter using Gambody test models. These values are average values for a Direct Drive extruder; for a Bowden extruder, the values should be increased.
Use this value other than 0 if your nozzle catches on the internal infill during travel moves. Try to keep this value as low as possible in height.
Use normal supports to support large, straight surfaces (most mechanical or technical parts).
You have to calibrate this parameter according to the capabilities of your printer and your filament, using a Gambody test models.
Use 1 instead of 0 if your supports are thin and tall. They will be harder to remove, but much stronger.
Top Z distance = 1-1.3 layer Height. If the supports are hard to remove, try increasing this setting by 0.1-0,4 mm
Increase this parameter if the supports are hard to remove from walls
Use tree supports to support complex objects, such as characters.
You have to calibrate this parameter according to the capabilities of your printer and your filament, using a Gambody test models.
Top Z distance = 1-1.3 layer Height. If the supports are hard to remove, try increasing this setting by 0.1-0,4 mm
Increase this parameter if the supports are hard to remove from walls
Use a skirt for all parts when printing on outdated printers.
Use a brim when printing thin but tall parts, as well as parts with a small bed adhesion area.
For better quality use 0.12 mm layer height, for fast printing use 0.2 mm layer height. For pins and the Ge connectors, use 0.2 layer height.
120-150% of your Layer Height
for 0.2 Layer Height
But you can paint the seam if you want.
(for PLA and PETG)
(5-8 mm is optional for small prints that have bad adhesion to the build plate)
Enable this parameter if your model requires supports
(45-50 degree)You have to calibrate this parameter according to the capabilities of your printer
and your filament, using a Gambody test models.
Top contact Z distance = 1-1.3 layer Height. If the supports are hard to remove, try
increasing this setting by 0.1-0,4 mm
Top contact Z distance = 1-1.3 layer Height. If the supports are hard to remove, try
increasing this setting by 0.1-0,4 mm
Increase this parameter if the supports are hard to remove from walls
The parameters in this tab vary greatly, it all depends on the quality of your printer. For example, if you have a classic Ender3, stick to the minimum parameters, but if you have a newer printer, for example Anycubic cobra 3 v3, you can select the maximum recommended values
Settings for advanced users, change these parameters only if you have sufficient 3D printing expertise. Use the minimum value for outdated printers without acceleration calibration, and the maximum value for modern printers if you need it.
These settings only work for 3D printers with multiple extruders
You can try setting all parameters in this section, except the First layer, to values between 0.75% of your nozzle diameter and 1.25% of your nozzle diameter. Adjusting them will help you work out the optimal parameters for the best quality for your print. As for the First layer, you can set it to 150% of the diameter of your nozzle for better adhesion to the build plate (for a nozzle with a diameter of 0.4 mm, the First layer extrusion width can be from 0.3 mm to 0.5 mm)
For better printing quality you have to calibrate this parameter using Gambody test model.
Check your filament manufacturer's temperature recommendations on the spool.
Cooling parameters depends on the material you use for printing.
*for PLA
For better quality use 0.12 mm layer height, for fast printing use 0.2 mm layer height. For pins and the Ge connectors, use 0.2 layer height.
120-150% of your Layer Height
For 0.12 Layer Height
For 0.12 Layer Height
For pins and connectors use 50% Infill
Use skirt for outdated 3d printers
(5-8 mm is optional for small prints that have bad adhesion to the build plate)
Enable this parameter if your model requires supports
(45-60 degree)You have to calibrate this parameter according to the capabilities of your printer and your filament, using a Gambody test models
Contact Z distance = 1-1.3 layer Height. If the supports are hard to remove, try increasing this setting by 0.1-0,4 mm
The parameters in this tab vary greatly, it all depends on the quality of your printer. For example, if you have a classic Ender3, stick to the minimum parameters, but if you have a newer printer, for example Anycubic cobra 3 v3, you can select the maximum recommended values
Settings for advanced users, change these parameters only if you have sufficient 3D printing expertise. Use the minimum value for outdated printers without acceleration calibration, and the maximum value for modern printers if you need it.
You have to calibrate this parameter from 0.9 to 1.1 according to the capabilities of your printer and your filament, using a Gambody test models.
Check your filament manufacturer's temperature recommendations on the spool.
Cooling parameters depends on the material you use for printing.
Calibrate this value if you need to reduce or improve the adhesion between the plastic and the heat bed
Your current nozzle diameter
You need to calibrate this parameter using Gambody test models. These values are average values for a Direct Drive extruder; for a Bowden extruder, the values should be increased.
Your current nozzle diameter
You have to calibrate this parameter using Gambody test models.
You need to calibrate this parameter using Gambody test models. These values are average values for a Direct Drive extruder; for a Bowden extruder, the values should be increased.
For better quality use 0.12 mm layer height, for fast printing use 0.2 mm layer height. For pins and the Ge connectors, use 0.2 layer height.
For 0,2 Layer Height
For 0,2 Layer Height
To increase the strength of the print parts, use Outline Perimeters: 3
You can enable this parameter to print rounded or spherical models, as well as character models.
Use this option only if your parts are too tight. but better calibrate your printer extrusion
Use this option only if your parts are too tight. but better calibrate your printer extrusion
Use 2 and more if you want to create skirt instead brim
1-2 for skirt and 10-20 for brim
Use for wipe nozzle if you need
Use For ABS filament
For pins and connectors use 50% Infill
Top Z distance = 1-1.3 layer Height. If the supports are hard to remove, try increasing this setting by 0.1-0,4 mm
Calibrate your filament and detect optimal temperature for it
Average temperature for PLA filament
The parameters in this tab vary greatly, it all depends on the quality of your printer. For example, if you have a classic Ender3, stick to the minimum parameters, but if you have a newer printer, for example Anycubic cobra 3 v3, you can select the maximum recommended values
Settings for advanced users, change these parameters only if you have sufficient 3D printing expertise.


























